My last night in Cape Town was spent in the beach town of Muizenberg, with my workmate Jasper. I had deboarded at the Muizenberg Station thrice before, to meet my workmates for fieldwork on Silvermine and for a weekend surf trip. The town is sleepy, quaint and calm, populated with small independent cafes and surf […]Read More Last Night in Cape Town
Continue from Part III or start at Part I. That night, I descaled and gutted the silvery fish with my pocketknife and fried it up, both sides with ginger and garlic. I browned onions alongside the fish and warmed up a few slices of ciabatta, for which the Kalk Bay Olympia Bakery is famous. The […]Read More How to Fry a Fish — Cape Town Style, Part IV
Continue from Part II or start from Part I. Jonathan and I returned to the City Bowl by rail. The Kalk Bay Station was initially sleepy. Three slender, glammed out coloured boys were catatonically entwined together on the platform. I wondered what combination of drugs and partying they were blissed out on. A fourth was […]Read More How to Fry a Fish — Cape Town Style, Part III
Continued from Part I. Dropping the fish into my rucksack, Jonathan and I walked down the pier. A light coloured boy, a bit swarthy already in his early teens, had caught a small mudskipper. His younger brother had just lost the bait off his line, which was weighted with a 10mm bolt and nut. Chatting […]Read More How to Fry a Fish — Cape Town Style, Part II
I learned to surf in Cape Town. Accompanied by Jonathan, an Israeli backpacker also staying at the Zebra Crossing Hostel, I took the train to Muizenberg, a little surf town on the southern coastal outskirts of Cape Town. I rented a board, wetsuit and surf coach at Gary’s Surf Shop. Fifteen minutes later, the guy […]Read More How to Fry a Fish – Cape Town Style, Part I
I made one and only one Friday night foray onto the Cape Town bar strip. It was the weekend of Halloween and Kloof St was running rampant with pirates, werewolves and zombie hookers. They spilled from pounding purple blacklighted clubs and shouted from deck parties fenced with Edwardian-era wrought-iron railings. Along the length of the […]Read More Just say no to bar parties.